3 Things to Look For:

Reliability

We’ve all been there, you reach for a pen to sign a check or contract and it doesn’t work. The ink’s dried out or the rollerball end isn’t budging. Then you do that awkward shake and scribble on scratch paper dance. A pen needs to be reliable and work each time. For mission critical situations (i.e. the pen I leave in my car), I prefer a pressurized cartridge, like the ones Fisher made famous with their Space Pens. They are not the only player in town though! Check out the Tombow AirPress for a cheaper alternative. If fancy cartridges are not your thing, just make sure you pick a reliable pen and ink system. I am fond of more “flowy” inks (like what Pilot Japan use) compared to the ones you traditionally find in American “Bic” style pens which I found easily clogged and dried out.

The Right Type of Ink

Speaking of reliability, the right type of ink is key. The ever-popular gel pens from all the famous Japanese brands have always been popular. And why not? They offer a huge variety of colors and they are so smooth to write with. They are made by suspending pigments in water. Motionless gel inks are thick like ballpoint ink but once you start writing, they flow smoothly while delivering crisp lines.

Make sure your ink is high in viscosity and matches your paper too; it’s terrible when you have to wait for ink to dry, or worse yet, if your ink bleeds through your notebook sheets. This is a notable con of rollerball ink – they soak through the paper really quickly. Try to avoid ink that is (too) water soluble; you don’t want a little sprinkle to wash away your class notes.

Multi-Use

If you have to carry something on your person or in a bag, every day, it might as well serve double duty. It’s not the end of the world if your pen is just a pen, but if it could double as a tool or personal protection weapon, even better. I am fond of the Embassy Pen from CountyComm. It’s made of solid aluminum, takes a Fisher Space Pen Refill, and essentially is a kubaton.

If self-defense isn’t your thing, multi-pens are also a favorite category of mine. Check out the innovative stuff the Japanese (I am fond of the Zebra Sharbo X series) are doing with their modular multi-pen setups. You can choose from a variety of pencil leads and pen inserts, offering different colors and widths.

3 Things to Avoid:

Proprietary or Hard-To-Find Refills

Unless you are really serious about pens and have a lot of supplies, avoid pens that use proprietary or really hard-to-find refills. I know I mention Space Pens a lot above and I agree that is counter-intuitive but I find them pretty easy to find at any office supply store. If you go for a disposable pen, then it doesn’t really matter which pen you use. However, in the interest of not polluting our world, and staying classy, I think a refillable pen would be a good investment.

Too Fine a Tip

All through school I used a 0.5mm mechanical pencil so in my mind that was a good/normal width to write in. Writing with pens is different though and while you may be the type to write very sharp and tiny text, I would suggest you give a thicker pen width a try. Too thin and you end up having very sharp points that scratch the paper (and possibly rip), rather than write. I am reaching for 0.7mm and even 1.0mm these days and couldn’t be happier.

Markers or Sharpies

I am a big fan of Sharpies and markers, especially the fine-tipped ones, but I think they do not belong in the same space as an EDC pen. Marker ink tends to bleed and is very unforgiving if you pause on the page to gather your thoughts. They also are rarely elegant (though that Stainless Steel Sharpie is pretty dope) and carrying one as your primary pen is a little too hipster for me. There are plenty of choices out there for good-looking, reliable pens, so find what works for you.

*If you found this useful, check out our 13 favorite pens for EDC. 

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A great briefcase can launch you into the corporate hemisphere faster than you can say, “Good morning Mr. CEO”. But the wrong briefcase? You can crash and burn like Enron. So, here are three things to look for and three things to avoid.

Three Things to Look For:

1. Style + Materials

2. Disciplined volume

3. Protection

Three Things to Avoid:

1. Lack of form

2. Cheap Nylon

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Four Things to Look For:

1. Robust Materials

2. Modularity

3. Suitable Suspension

4. Good Access

Four Things to Avoid:

1. Bright Colors

2. Dust Catchers

4. Security Risks

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But most weekenders suck.

In shooting for classic style, most brands spit out basic forms with very little thought to functionality. So here’s our ABC for picking a good weekender instead of suffering a frustrating weekend.

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3 things to look for:

Good access:

Can you see most of the contents in your bag? Do you need to empty the whole thing to find your socks? Access is generally dominated by the opening shape, so look for wide openings without complicated latches or rough zips.

A few features:

This usually means a few pockets (mainly for toiletries, reading material, and fragile items like sunglasses or fun tourist collectibles), a nice and comfortable shoulder carry option, and a base that won’t scratch and look crap on your first use. A great bonus is a wet & dry section for swim gear or muddy footwear.

Great style:

Beyond ‘simple and restrained’, this becomes mostly about fabrics. All leather is often overkill with weekenders (it can work, but only when mastered). Typically, we suggest a non-technical fabric like coated canvas, with the finesse of some leather hits. Generally avoid synthetic fabrics, as this is about relaxed style, not airport tech.

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3 things to avoid:

Nasty hardware:

Catchy zippers and clanging hardware are the main culprits. Make sure these work smoothly and don’t feel like a charm bracelet.

Rigid volume:

Your weekender should flex between an overnight trip and a week-long holiday by the pool. If your weekender can’t collapse a little, or be stretched to fit a small shopping spree, you’ll get frustrated by it.

Poor ageing:

Some leathers scratch really easily. Some light-colored canvas attracts dirt like a moth to flame. Your weekender should last for years so you can build amazing memories into its very patina. Make sure this bag will get better with age, not worse.

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A good wallet prioritises a few main cards and gives you quick access to those. It then tucks the rest away in space-efficient storage for the few times a year you need them.

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3 things to look for:

Flat or folded bills:

Folding bills lets you reduce their size to that of a credit card, so you can run with smaller wallets. Keeping bills flat is more convenient, but your wallet will be larger. You need to work out how often you use bills, and whether you can be bothered folding them to get a smaller wallet.

The right number of cards:

If you buy a wallet intended for 15 cards, it’s not going to work very well for 3 cards. You want to start with wallets that are designed for the number of cards you need to carry, so that you’re minimizing the excess air and leather you’ll be carrying around.

Thickness matters at least as much as size:

When in your pocket, it’s actually the thickness of your wallet that makes it stick out like a brick. You want to find a wallet that will remain reasonably slim and therefore discreet when filled with all your cards.

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3 things to avoid:

Excessive air and card slots:

Every time you separate cards in card slots you add a layer of air and a layer of leather to your wallet volume. If you separate 15 cards in individual slots, you’re going to have a hamburger of a wallet.

Thick leather:

Your wallet doesn’t typically get dragged across tarmac or dropped from a B-52, so you don’t need the thickest buffalo hides known to man. Good wallet makers select thinner leathers, so you can keep your pocket bulge as slim as possible.

Coins if you can:

If you have a fob pocket it’s a great spot for coins. As is a tip jar, your partner’s handbag, or your car. If you carry coins in your wallet you significantly increase the bulk, stretch the leather, and create stress concentrators that can break cards. If you must get a wallet with a coin section, cleanse your coins frequently to keep their count low.

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The two biggest differences in rolling luggage are hard vs soft cases, and spinners vs barrow wheel arrangements. As a general rule, we recommend hard cases for spinners, and soft cases for barrows.

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3 things to look for:

Weight. Weight. Weight:

Unless you’re flying by private jet, weight has become the single biggest issue in rolling luggage. Many airlines now won’t take a bag over 50 lbs/22 kg. And if they do, they’ll probably charge you LOTS extra for it. If your wheeled luggage weighs 1/3rd of that, you really don’t have much allowance left for winter boots or holiday reading. Too many cases still weigh over 10 lbs. Some great luggage is now down to 3.4 kg/7.5 lbs. That’s our current benchmark.

Spinner vs barrow wheel arrangements:

Spinner cases are multi-directional, so they work better in tight spaces like trains. They also don’t require you to ‘hold them up’, so they require less energy and let you stack other bags on top. Their downside is that the wheels are normally too small, so they snag. Barrow luggage (think wheelbarrow) typically has bigger wheels (better for rougher surfaces), and needs less structure, so you can make soft cases that grow and shrink better with your needs.

Hard vs soft cases:

Hard cases tend to last better over the long term. They resist abrasion better, and provide enough structure to run spinner arrangements. However, they take up space in storage, don’t grow and shrink for the length of trip you have, and can fail pretty catastrophically. Soft cases were lighter until the last few years, but their biggest strength is that you can semi-collapse them to better fit your size needs.

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3 things to avoid:

Small and/or hard wheels:

The bigger and softer the wheels, the easier your bag will roll. If you go with a spinner that has tiny wheels, prepare to snag on every crack or pebble you come across. Hard wheels also make more noise, are more prone to scratching floors (by catching on small pebbles and dragging them), and transfer more vibrations through your bag.

Security that doesn’t work:

A locked suitcase zipper can be opened in a second with nothing more than a pen. If you really want to lock your bags you’ll need hard case luggage, with covered zippers and fixed locking points for your zip heads. Anything less than this is just pretend security.

Corners and hardware break first:

When choosing luggage, spend most of your time looking at the wheels, zips, telescoping handles, and corners. These are the parts that receive the most abuse, and are typically the first to fail. If at all in doubt, go with a long warranty from a reputable brand.

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3 things to look for:

Easy access to all your gear:

If you didn’t need easy access, you’d go with a trekking pack. You want a duffel that will open up wide, so you can find just the thing you’re after without removing an entire camp’s worth of contents.

Weatherability, particularly around the base:

It’s assumed that if you’re running with a duffel you’ll get the occasional dose of weather unload on it. Pay particular attention to the base of the duffel, as you want to be able to drop it on wet grass or snow without it soaking up and in.

Extended carry options:

While you’re not going to get a trekking pack level of comfort, it is nice to get a second strap to split the load over both shoulders. Most duffels still need to be carried at least a little way, and if they’re loaded to 80L+, that weight starts to hurt pretty quickly.

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3 things to avoid:

Some duffel sizes suck:

Duffels are often designed at one volume, and then scaled up and down to make a range. The largest duffels in a range often don’t work very well, with straps anchored too low and the bags kinking in the middle. The smallest duffels in the range often have too much going on for their size. So pay attention to the size you are buying and make sure the features suit that size.

Strap spaghetti sucks:

All those bells and whistles getting added to duffels can create a mass confusion of straps and dangly bits. If you’re considering a duffel like this, make sure the straps don’t stop you getting easy access to the bag, or cause snagging if you ever check it in on a plane.

Un-burly duffels suck:

You want at least a little bit of durability to a duffel. If the fabrics are too flimsy, the base not reinforced, or the zippers little size 8’s, you’re probably going to break your bag. Make sure the straps are well anchored, the base looks like you can drag it a touch, and zips are #10’s. It will last you a lot longer that way.

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Your biggest choice is whether to wheel or carry. Then if you carry, is it one strap or two. This mostly comes down to how much weight you’ll carry, and whether you want to actually carry it, or just roll it behind. There are hybrids that let you wheel or carry, but these have a weight penalty which means they generally work better in larger check-in bags.

3 things to look for:

Squashability for tight spaces:

While hard-case spinners have their place in check-in luggage, we generally don’t like them for carry-on. They are hard to fit overhead or under-seat, and the wheels end up so small they are almost useless. For carry-on, we recommend soft cases for 96% of the population (photographers and beauty therapists are the exception).

Computers determine lots:

If you want to carry a laptop, fast in and out makes life much more enjoyable. This means you generally need a separate vertical section designated for your laptop. Go TSA compliant flip-downs if you’re a seriously frequent traveller.

Looks your mother would be proud of:

At some point or another, most carry-on bags end up in front of a client. If your flight is delayed and you have to go direct to the presentation, make sure you look smart and organised. Avoid crazy colors. Mean business instead.

3 things to avoid:

Weight bites:

While the US is more lenient with carry-on weight, most European and Asian airlines limit your weight to around 7kg. That’s not much, so if your bag is heavy, you’re not getting much more than underwear onboard.

Limited pocketing options are limiting:

Lots of carry-on doesn’t provide a solution for bulky headphones, a drink bottle, or anything else not square and book shaped. Having some quick access external pocketing makes life much easier with security lines and train trips.

Single strap carry for heavy loads hurts:

Lots of carry-on works only as single strap carry. While single straps are great for a light computer bag, if you try to haul a week’s worth of gear on one shoulder, you’re going to hurt. Lots of great carry-on lets you engage a second strap for backpack carry. We rate this.

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Messengers and satchels beat backpacks for lighter loads, hotter climates, looking sharp in an office space or when access on the go is needed. But there are common issues. The bike inspired messengers rely on a soft form to wrap around your body and take some of the load, so they’re generally not very good with rigid things like laptops which stop this wrap. Traditional satchels and work style shoulder bags are more structured, so deal better with laptops and work papers, but pretty much have to hang by your side as they can’t wrap around you.

3 things to look for:

Soft for active or structured for organising:

There are not many bags that do the semi-structured thing well. So if you do want to ride or get active, the softer and more wrapping the bag the better. If you’re after a more structured bag to look stylish at the office, don’t try and go soft and unstructured. Find a satchel that is squarer like the items you’ll put in it. Generally, flap openings work best for soft messengers, roll-top openenings for semi-structured messengers, and zip openings for structured satchels.

A great strap (preferably reversible):

You only get one, so it needs to be good. If you’re going to ride or get active, make sure the messenger can be pulled in close and ride high on your back. This style of messenger needs good padding which continues into the body of the bag, and quick release buckles to lengthen it again. If you’re just going for a structured work satchel, don’t expect to get active, so don’t stress about the strap.

Fabrics that suit your environment:

If you’re riding, you’ll want water-resistant polyesters that can take mud, rain and road grime (nylons are normally too shiny and tech for this look). If you’re just going from bus or car to office, you can start to get canvas, leather and naturals in the mix. If you need stylish and weather-proof, coated or waxed canvas is probably for you.

3 things to avoid:

Gorby gaps:

Gorby Gaps or ‘Prince Charles Ears’ are the turned out sides of a bag that let you see past the flap and into the bag. These are a result of lazy pattern making, and should not exist. Tube openings, clever gusseting or smart panel work can avoid them, and so should you.

Crowded organising:

Most messengers put all the organising under the front flap. When you stack layers of organising here, any single apple, spectacles case or computer charger will jam all of them and make them unusable. Look for organising to the sides, the top inside, or anywhere that you won’t have a log jam going on.

Bright, shiny, or conference messenger bags:

Unless you’re sure it’s cool, just don’t go there. Any outfit can be totally undermined by a really bad bag, so you’re safer going subdued colors, minimal branding, and a clean bag that has a really resolved shape. Or at least that’s how we see it…

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As part of the new Carryology overhaul, we’re bolstering the reference aspects of the site. One way we’ll do this is by releasing a series of ‘Buying Tips’ to help cover the basics of what to look for when the buying bug bites.

Once posted, these Buying Tips will then live in our Carry101 section. If you haven’t scoped that yet, you really should. It’s our vault of carry foundation knowledge.

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And now the bit about Backpacks:

A backpack beats a messenger if you are carrying heavier loads, partaking in dynamic activities, or carrying loads for longer periods. They lose to messengers for access on the go, or when you need to look good in a suit.

No backpack can do everything (although some come close). If you want to get active in it, make sure you can stabilise your load with compression straps and a sternum strap. If you want to haul weight in it, make sure it has a semi-rigid back panel with a great waist belt so you can transfer the load to your hips. If you just want to lug some clothes and food around, pick something that speaks to you emotionally because the function is less important for light loads and basic supplies.

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3 things to look for:

Start with your most demanding needs:

Decide what matters the most. Does it have to look sharp at the office? Or protect your technology on a rainy ride to work? No one bag does it all, so choose your one or two most demanding needs and start with backpacks targeting those.

Get a format that fits:

A bag shape should generally resemble the contents you carry with it, so briefcases are square like folders, while trekking packs are rounded like clothes. Format also affects access, where top access packs can be placed beside you at work or study and accessed without emptying. Whereas front accessed packs are often best laid out on a bed and packed for travel.

A mix of internal and external pocketing:

External pockets best suit items you need on the run; things like sunglasses, tunes, food and books. This not only helps with convenience, it also limits what prying eyes can see when you are retrieving items. For internal pockets, you really want to be at your destination, or have plenty of time and space, because you’ll need to open the bag up. Internal pockets are best high up on the bag, where they avoid crush zones down the bottom of their section.

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3 things to avoid:

Poor fabric and construction:

Fabrics that look dusty or crinkly will usually age badly, as it’s typically a sign of poor quality. Loose threads are a sign of poor construction, and often foretell of straps coming loose and seams unstitched. And zips that catch in use typically foretell of other shortcuts taken.

Excessive straps and sections:

You don’t need 38 compression straps and all-over MOLLE webbing; unless you’re climbing K2 or in the armed forces you won’t use them. Likewise, you don’t need 5 separate sections because no single section will then be large enough for a helmet or grocery bag. Just enough straps, and just enough sections. Oh, and if section walls can move in and out a little, that helps.

Ugly backpacks:

A cheap or ugly backpack can destroy your style faster than bad shoes and mullets. Big graphics, conference embroideries, and oversized zip pulls and handles are common mistakes. Just like monk patches, just because you can’t see it when on, doesn’t mean everyone else isn’t staring.

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