Featured Gear:

Backpacks:

Mission Workshop R6
Tom Bihn Synik 30
Black Ember Forge Max
GORUCK GR1 26L Shooter 500D Slick
The Brown Buffalo ConcealPack 21L

Pouches and modular accessories:

HoldFastGear Quiver
Filip Raboch Custom Pouch
Filip Raboch Custom Packing Cube
Mission Workshop Axis VX
Mission Workshop Arkiv Side Pockets
Tom Bihn 3D Organizer Pouch (clear) ; (all-fabric)
Tom Bihn Ghost Whale Pouch
The Brown Buffalo Porterpen Case
The Brown Buffalo MOD 001/002
GORUCK Shooter Velcro Kit GR1
Black Ember Water Bottle Attachment
CDH-TAC X Alpha One Niner Collaboration Wallet
Camera Shown: Leica Sofort
Camera used in filming: Sony RX100 VII

A massive thanks to JT White for the above guide. Our newest team member, JT is a Canadian-born, professional photographer living in Seoul, South Korea. Get to know him below!

The post A Beginner’s Guide to Modular Packing appeared first on Carryology - Exploring better ways to carry.

It’s more than strapping bags to bikes

Different riders, bikes, terrain, and weather mean no two rides are the same. A single bikepacking trip can span a wide array of conditions. Bikepacking bag design has to follow the same philosophy as bike design – utilizing the best materials, chosen for their performance, alongside geometry that complements the terrain and riding style, and the most suitable components.

Packs for road riding prioritize storage space and even weight distribution. Mountain bike bags are more abrasion resistant and work around suspension and moving components. Racing-focused packs are more streamlined and focus on weight and efficient construction, rather than extra features. Focusing on your preferred riding style and ensuring the packs fit your favorite bike should guide which style you choose. Above all else, make sure the packs are waterproof and durable – nothing ruins a bikepacking trip faster than wet gear.

In the bikepacking world, seam welding tends to be the gold standard for waterproofing. Bag shapes and designs are difficult to tape and stitched constructions usually lead to water seeping in under sustained rain. Waterproof zips and roll closures are common and reliable ways of keeping water out of packs. But look closely at small details such as zipper garages and flaps of material that divert water away from openings. 

Achieving perfect balance

The most common spaces used for bikepacking bags are found underneath the saddle, inside the frame triangle (as well as on top and below) and mounted directly to the handlebars. 

It can be tempting to pick one space and fill it with the biggest bag possible to carry everything. But this is a surefire way to make your first bikepacking trip an uphill battle. Your goal should be to equally balance the weight of your gear around the center of gravity of your bike. Balancing five kilos off the back of the saddle will seriously alter the way you know your bike to handle. Whereas two kilos in a saddle bag, balanced by two more on the handlebars and the rest of your gear in a frame bag will result in a much more pleasant ride. 

As you ride more with bags strapped to your bike, you’ll develop a system for what goes where. But there are some general rules of thumb that can help guide your packing system until you perfect it:

Saddle bags are ideal for spare clothes and a warm down jacket; things you need after a day of riding. This is also a decent spot for a sleeping bag if it can’t fit in the front.

Frame bags are great places to store heavy items: a water bladder, stove, fuel, tent stakes, food, extra snacks, and gear that can remain static whilst riding.

Handlebar bags are a great space for a small tent, mattress, and sleeping bag. Bungee attachments and accessory pockets provide useful space for storing snacks, camera, documents, and things you need easy access to.

Top tube bags are for items you want easy access to while riding, such as a phone, gloves, snood, warm hat, portable batteries, energy bars, and snacks. 

Food pouches/stem bags are ideal for stashing food, sunglasses, gloves, or water bottles.

Fork bags are ideal for storing compressible items such as sleeping gear and extra clothing. 

These spaces differ between bike types, however. Road, gravel, mountain, and commuter bikes are all completely different shapes and will favor different types of packs. For example, few road bikes have fork pack mounts.   

Less is more

While it is possible to attach a bag to every single part of your bike and carry every creature comfort imaginable, bikepacking is about maintaining ride feel. Much of the challenge (and fun!) is stripping your kit list back to just the essentials. Doing away with the clutter surrounding us in daily life.

You’ll be surprised how little you need. Joe Rass-Court recently rode 1,800km across Colombia with barely more than many would take for a day ride. With 36,000m of climbing, he wanted the weight as low as possible, fully embracing the ‘less is more’ mindset:

“For longer tours, there’s a temptation to pack more. But heavier bikes are less fun to ride and I wanted to focus on enjoying my time both on and off the bike as much as possible, riding hard during the day and enjoying staying in hotels at night. With so much climbing, keeping the weight down was extra important and my kit added just 2.5kg to my setup, despite containing all my clothes and spares.”

Even Jenny Graham, who set the Guinness World Record for the fastest circumnavigation of the world by bike, stripped her kit back to the essentials. She carried just one small luxury for her four months on the road:

“I REALLY love having a lip balm with me. I don’t need it but it’s a wee bit of lush in a grim headwind!”

While it’s easy to do away with a few spare layers or electronics, tools and spares is one place where the balancing act between ‘just enough to get by’ and ‘ride-ending disaster’ is particularly tough. Part of the bikepacking mindset is self-support and being able to fix your bike trailside to finish your tour. But carrying bulky items (like spare tires) that end up being unused can be extremely frustrating.

Jenny Tough, Apidura ambassador, explains:

“On a short ride, I just carry my little saddle tool bag with a tubeless repair kit and small multitool. Worse than that, I’ll walk. On a longer day ride, I’ll usually take a half-frame bag with a pump, tube, multitool, tubeless repair kit, chain link and tool, chain wipes, spare cable (it’s in the bag already, I’ll probably call for a lift if I actually need it!) and maybe a battery and charging cable for my phone. On an extended tour/race, the only addition to the above would be chain lube, two tubes instead of one, and on the Silk Road Mountain Race I wrongly carried a spare tire the whole way around.” 

Be prepared

One of the side effects of embracing the adventure spirit of bikepacking is finding adventure on your doorstep. Realizing that everyday rides can be made more special by staying out a little longer. Being more flexible. And simply being prepared for anything you might encounter when you take the road or trail you’ve always ridden past and thought, “I wonder where that goes.” 

Josh Kato: “The option of just getting on the bike and going is what I love. Having a nice roomy frame pack gives me so many options as what to carry without having to strap anything else to the bike or myself. Being prepared for the unexpected is key for me. Also, if I decide to make my day ride into an impromptu overnighter I like to know I have an extra layer of clothing to bed down in.”

Consider keeping some bags on your bike permanently and see where the freedom and flexibility they bring take you. Bikepacking might seem big and daunting before your first tour. But after a few longer rides and overnighters, you’ll quickly get into the swing of things and figure out what works for you. 

What to Pack

Well, everyone is different. But here’s a great packing list from Jenny Graham. This is her round-the-world proven gear and curated for a weekend or slightly longer bikepacking trip.

Terranova Moonlite bivvy
Cumulus X-Lite 200 sleeping bag
Klymit Inertia X-lite short mat (discontinued – nearest equivalent)
Endura drop seat bibs
Endura BaaBaa socks
Endura cycling jersey
Endura Pro Adrenaline Race gilet
Endura down jacket
Endura MT500 waterproof jacket
Endura leg warmers
Tire boots (sections of old tire)
Puncture repair kit
Tire levers
Inner tubes
Pump
Gorilla tape
Cable ties
Anker Battery pack
USB cables
Sunglasses
Endura arm warmers
Multitool

This article was written by Ross Arnold, product designer at Apidura.

The post Pro Guide: How to Pack for Bikepacking Adventures appeared first on Carryology - Exploring better ways to carry.

RECOMMENDED GEAR IN VIDEO:

Bellroy Transit Plus

White’s Boots Stevens

Randolph Engineering Aviator Sunglasses

Apple AirPods Pro

Matador Lens Base Layer: Discontinued

Matador Camera Base Layer

Peak Design Travel Tripod

Granite Gear Air Bags

NiteIze RunOff Pouches

Arc’teryx Interstate Jacket: Discontinued (so check out their Beta AR)

Western Rise AirLoft Shirt Jacket

Darn Tough Socks

Smartwool Socks

Unbound Merino Socks

Unbound Merino Crew Neck T-Shirt

Western Rise StrongCore Merino Tee

Outlier Ultrafine T-Shirt

Western Rise AT Slim Pant

Triple Aught Design Intercept PD Pant

DUER All-Weather Denim

Outlier Slim Dungarees

ExOfficio Give-N-Go Boxer Brief

Western Rise Merino Cashmere Beanie

Bellroy Apex Passport Cover

Apple iPad Pro 11″

ARTICLES TO READ:

Waterproof vs Water Resistant, explained

23 Reasons Why You Should Try ‘One Bag’ Travel

The Best Clothes for a Men’s Capsule Wardrobe for Travel

BAGS IN BACKGROUND:

Peak Design Travel Backpack

Heimplanet Travel Pack 34

A heads up: we’re supported by our readers. So when you buy through links from Carryology.com, we may earn a small commission, at no cost to you. This helps support us, and allows us to keep investing in our testing, reviews and editorials.

The post Minimalist Travel Packing List: One Bag, 16+ Days appeared first on Carryology - Exploring better ways to carry.

So in this article I’ll touch on some basic tips to set up and style your home office with accessories that’ll make your WFH time more enjoyable, while also notching up ever-important style points.

Tips

Lighting

Wherever your office of choice (or convenience) is, natural light is super important to help you feel energized, so position your desk near a window and keep the window treatments light and airy to let as much of the magic golden stuff in as possible.

Style it (minimally)

When you’re choosing your WFH essentials, go with classic and timeless design, and in common colors and shades. Blacks, whites, blues and silvers are easy to find and match. And if you need a splash of color, I’d use an art piece or some plants to do the heaving lifting.

Unclutter

Cables and wires that sweep across your desk like train lines are a big distraction and can jam up any sense of calm and relaxation. Find yourself a great pouch, some Velcro wrap or even a cable tidy solution to keep them together and away as much as possible.

Same goes for storage. If your work requires a lot of documents or charts, then invest in a basic cabinet or even a simple plastic tub to slip under your desk.

Go natural

Oftentimes, home offices can be dull and soulless spaces. One room, a laptop, and four plaster walls; but adding in natural things and materials can really give a space life and warmth.

Plants, for instance, are an easy win. They can bring a sense of tranquility, reduce noise and filter the air, and watering them once a day can be a nice daily routine.

As far as gear: leather, wool and wood bring refinement and a textural element that can make a space a real delight.

Personalize

You can buy all of the nicest essentials in the world, but a space is never really yours until you put ‘you’ in it. Whether that be by framed photographs or your images from your favorite street photographer, always find a way to sprinkle this stuff in.

Employ ergonomics

If you’re doing this incorrectly, you’ll feel it in your shoulders, back and neck. A good chair, standing mat, and laptop stand can do wonders in this department.

Editor’s Picks: Stylish Home Office Essentials

AZIO Retro Classic – Bluetooth Keyboard

Keyboards are hard things to notch up style points with – they’re generally made of plastic and overly ‘techy’ in appearance. But not the AZIO Retro Classic. It’s a mechanical keyboard that feels and looks like a retro typewriter. And when I’m hammering down its keys it has the heaviness and satisfying click I’m looking for. 

In the hand, it feels super premium. It has a great weight and no flex. The the real secret is in the analog switches beneath every key. These mechanical switches not only deliver a modestly clicky and satisfying tactile feel, but actually register each keypress about halfway down in the keystroke — meaning you can type lighter, faster, more accurately, and more comfortably.

With its sleek backlit key set, the Retro Classic combines vintage styling with modern features in a handsome, stylish package that represents the best value on the market for a mechanical keyboard. The LED backlights are situated perfectly at the center of each key, illuminating the keyboard evenly and beautifully. And an additional feature is the custom embossed logo plate made from brushed anodized aluminum. It also offers an enticing contrast with a genuine wood backplate and a zinc aluminum frame that’s anodized to look like gunmetal.

The keyboard is compatible with both Mac and PC layouts, and includes interchangeable keycaps that correspond to each. Connectivity-wise you can connect via USB or Bluetooth technology, with a dual USB and Bluetooth interface available. And for racking up those long hours it has a ginormous 5,000 mAh lithium-ion rechargeable battery. With the backlight off, usage time is up to a year, which is pretty darn impressive.

Sennheiser PXC 550-II – Over-Ear Wireless Headphones

When I’m working, I’m either jamming in Hangouts or bumping good tunes to help me power through my workload, and my headphones rarely leave my head. So quality sound and comfort are high on my priority list. And the Sennheiser PXC 550-II’s most certainly nail those key criteria. They have thick, cushiony ear pads covered in a soft synthetic leather that really hug your ears, and only weigh 227 grams, so they don’t start to feel like barbells around your ears after a heavy 9-5, pulling long-hauls in your home office (or on a plane) no problem. 

Then, of course, there’s the sound. Sennheiser get it. They have a long and rich history in the audio world and they’re meticulous about their craft. It’s just well done: curvaceous low frequencies, a textured and detailed bottom end, bitey treble, solid mid, a rounded and lively bass (although as a hip-hop head I would love just a little more bass, but that’s just me). 

The look is very clean and stripped of OTT branding. They have a very low-key and mature style, blending in well with any desk setup. They’re foldable too, and sit inside a clean-looking case that looks good at a desk.

On the feature side there’s a bunch of smarts built in. Active noise cancellation with an adaptive mode to ‘adapt’ to suit different environments by altering the strength of ANC. There’s also an option for anti-wind mode if you install the app. 

The right earcup is your control panel with touch-controls. You swipe up and down to change the volume, tap once to play and pause, etc. It’s very easy and intuitive. 

The battery lasts for a good 20 hours with noise cancellation, and an even better 30 hours if you leave it switched off. So that’s nearly one solid work week without juicing up! 

All in all, I’m incredibly happy with these. They’re the most comfortable headphones I’ve owned, even more comfortable than my QC25s and Beats Studio3s. The sound is incredibly balanced and rich. And the feature set adds to the user experience, without being too much or too complex. This is a fine example of Sennheiser doing what they’ve always done: nailing audio. 

Nomad Base Station Stand Edition

Nomad are known for their phone accessories and wireless charging, and the Base Station Stand is their premium answer to wirelessly charging, while keeping your phone portrait or landscape (instead of flat) and accessible and visible desk-side. 

Aesthetically speaking, it walks the line between function and form beautifully, with a precision molded aircraft-grade aluminum body that is sleek and minimal, and has a good heft in the hand out of the box. The charging pad is leather. The base where you place your phone is a grippy silicone, and the stand itself has a border of no-slip rubber ‘feet’ to keep it from sliding around your desk.

It can charge a range of ‘Qi certified’ devices, from iPhones to Pixels to AirPods. And it also comes with a couple of adapters for travel and a smart light sensor at the rear of the unit that senses changes in light and dims the front LED accordingly. 

It’s simple, good-looking, and a delight to use. 

Sonic Editions Run D.M.C

You simply can’t beat great art on the walls. And if you can frame up something that speaks to you personally, even better. Me, I love black and white photography. There’s something so classic and timeless about it. And I’m a huge hip-hop head. So when I stumbled across this print of RUN D.M.C. taken by Derek Ridgers in 1985, I had to have it. Not only does it capture and distil a moment in time in a single frame, but it’s an image that has real unadulterated joy in it. It makes me happy every time I look at it, no matter what kind of day I’m having – DMC’s face gets me every time! 

But you don’t have to be a hip-hop head to enjoy something like this. And that’s where Sonic Editions comes in, an online retailer that runs with a stable of the world’s most talented photographers and works with huge photo archives to deliver gallery-quality photography of the greatest musicians, film stars, cult heroes and cultural icons, from Bowie to Biggie to Paul Newman and Mahershala Ali. If you’re looking for your own ‘moment’ or icon to add some art to your space, then I highly recommend. 

LARQ Bottle – Self Sanitizing Water Bottle

This water bottle does everything other bottles do, it’s easy to clean, and it keeps your cool drinks cool (24 hours) and your hot drinks hot (12 hours), but has two very distinct advantages: one, it looks like a sculptured art piece. And two, it uses a powerful UV-C LED light that intelligently activates every two hours to destroy harmful bacteria and viruses from your water or beverage. And it does that for one month on just one charge, so it’s low maintenance in the best kind of way. And in a time when we’re worried more about viruses in particular, it’s a real plus. 

Good-looking, smart and kicking goals in the hygiene department, this is a great desk companion. 

Grovemade Leather Desk Pad

A lot of leather products can arrive and be underwhelming, with too many blemishes showing on the hide or unfinished and frayed edges. Good leather and craftsmanship is a fine art. But when you get your hands on it done well, it can add so much class to your gear. Case in point, this vegetable-tanned leather desk pad from Grovemade. It’s like a one-layer instant makeover for your desk, transforming a regular service into something special. The leather is lovely and supple, the edges smooth and clean, and the bottom grippy and textured, so it stays in place and where you need it. 

Grovemade Walnut Laptop Stand

Your laptop stand is the centerpiece of your desk, it’s what a great desk setup builds around. And you won’t find a more elegant and beautiful object to inspire your new look than this walnut stand from Grovemade. Handmade in their Portland workshop, it’s a sight to behold. With its smooth and clean lines, and soft to touch, the craftsmanship is apparent as soon as you take it from the delivery box. 

MOVI Standing Desk

There’s lots of scientific research about the benefits of standing desks. You see, the human body isn’t meant to crouch over a keyboard for eight-plus hours a day (scientists call it ‘prolonged sedentary time’). It’s not good for blood flow or energy levels and productivity and can even cause weight gain. So there’s been a recent move of late in progressive offices, and now WFHers, to move towards desks that can elevate your work game in more ways than one. 

But there’s a lot of choices: from large full-sized desks (which can be expensive), to small compact solutions, to electric ones and those adjusted by hand. For me, I needed something that could sit reliably on the desk I already had. I needed lovely materials. A strong build and warranty (always get a warranty when dealing with electronics and motors). And something with a little smarts built in (I wanted as little distractions as possible). 

And so I found the MOVI. It’s an Australian brand that does all of the above. Crafted with a bamboo workspace area (115cm x 70cm ), it’s wide enough for two monitors, and kitted out with an 18V high-speed electric motor, it delivers fast and smooth lifting, sit-stand controls (and a stand level that can be saved to your preference), USB ports for charging, and a handy move reminder (when you need to get up or sit down based on your physical needs).

It’s really everything you need, in a damn good-looking, reliable and smart package. 

Grovemade Titanium Pen and Stand

Whenever I’m doing creative thinking, I put pen to paper. It just rewires my brain in all the right ways. But having a cheap pen that labors across the page breaks my focus. So I like a good pen by my workstation. And there’s nothing quite like the Grovemade Titanium Pen. The weight and handfeel are perfect. The look is clean and classic. The Schmidt P8126 rollerball writes super smoothly. And the weighted stand makes it a real showpiece, upping anyone’s desk game a few notches. All handmade in Portland, USA, by a brand that’s incredible at rethinking office and daily gear. I highly recommend!

Moleskine Notebook

We’ve covered a bunch of notebooks over the years, and everyone’s different, but my personal favorite is the Moleskine Classic Hard Cover. It’s basic yet super classic, and it feels more substantial to me than other soft cover options, like it’s a notebook that only the good stuff gets scribbled into, and for me that’s brainstorms, interview notes, and lightbulb moment ideas – there’s no doodling here.

Bellroy A5 Work Folio

You couldn’t really ask for a more premium folio to have at your desk, and Bellroy’s Work Folio in A5 is a total showpiece blessed with beautiful lines and wrapped in some of the world’s best vegetable-tanned leather. This of course is paired with their signature smart pocketing, allowing for a tablet, phone, passport, notebook, cards and pens which seamlessly slip inside while maintaining a compact and lithe profile. I’m spoilt and got this for free, and it’s likely overkill for some, but if you want style and something that travels well and brings a little statement to an important business negotiation (when those are done face-to-face again), then this is a beautiful object with serious smarts that’ll last a lifetime, and certainly longer than COVID restrictions.

The post How To Build A Stylish Home Office appeared first on Carryology - Exploring better ways to carry.

Parts list:

2″ Cordura Nylon Webbing (2 yards)

1″ Cordura Nylon Webbing (1 yard)

ITW Nexus GT Cobra Loop Body 2″

ITW Nexus GT Cobra Slider Latch 2″

ITW Nexus 2″-1″ Reducer

Duraflex Common Loop Acetal 2″

Duraflex Double Bar D-Ring Acetal 1″

Duraflex Quik-Slip Keeper 2″

Other things you’ll need:

Sewing machine that can sew through multiple layers of nylon webbing

Bic lighter

T-70 nylon thread

Heavy-duty scissors

Thread snips

Instructions:

1. Start by cutting 3 strips of nylon webbing using very sharp, heavy-duty scissors. The first strip will use the 2″ webbing and should be cut 18″ long. The second strip will also use the 2″ webbing and should be cut 40″ long. The final strip uses 1″ webbing and should be cut to 9″ long. Be sure to make straight cuts and use the lighter to carefully melt the ends of the nylon webbing so that they do not fray. Be sure not to overdo it with the lighter. You just need to melt any loose threads on the very edge. Also, always use proper ventilation when burning nylon webbing.

2. Take the 18″ long piece of nylon webbing and fold the end over about 3/4″ twice so that the cut end of the webbing is inside of the fold. Sew the fold so that it cannot unroll. We used 2 parallel stitches, but you could also use a bartack depending on your machine. This will be the end of the strap that you attach to the bag.

3. Sew the GT Cobra Loop Body to the other end of the 18″ long strip using a similar 3/4″ fold, but this time fold the webbing in the opposite direction as before so that the fold holding the buckle is hidden when you are wearing the bag.

4. Add the Quick-Slip Keeper to the 18″ long strap with its opening facing up and set the strap aside for now.

5. Using the 40″ long strip this time, create another 3/4″ end fold treatment just like you did before.

6. Weave the opposite end of the 40″ long strip through the GT Cobra Slider Latch as shown in the photo, making sure to also weave the 2″-1″ Reducer through the loop created on the front of the buckle. This will be the “pull” for your quick release.

7. Sew the Common Loop onto the end, making sure to fold the webbing in the opposite direction you used for the other end.

8. Thread your 1″ webbing strip through the 2″-1″ Reducer and thread on the Double Bar D-Ring to the other end, folding the webbing and sewing so that it matches the photo.

9. Remove the stock strap from the 2 tri-glides at both top corners of the bag. The easiest way to do this is to open up the Velcro and fold the webbing at a 45-degree angle so that the fasteners are parallel and in line with the webbing. It also helps to have some slack in the webbing before you begin this step. It can be SUPER frustrating because everything is so tight, but it will work and after you’ve done it once, it seems easier.

10. Remove the shoulder pad from the stock strap by sliding it carefully toward the end and then slide it onto the 18″ long strap you just made, making sure that you keep the same orientation.

11. While looking at the back of the bag, weave the 18″ long strap onto the top right tri-glide and weave the 40″ long strap onto the top left tri-glide. Move the optional stabilizer strap over to your new strap, buckle up, adjust, and you’re ready to go!

Liked this article? You might enjoy these too:

How To: Create Custom Zipper Pulls Tutorial

9 DIY Projects Fit for EDC

How To :: Make a Leather Key Fob

And if you’re keen for another great upgrade, you can check out this Fidlock buckle upgrade from our friends at Loaded Pocketz too. 

The post How to Upgrade Your Arc’teryx Courier 15 with a Quick Adjust Strap appeared first on Carryology - Exploring better ways to carry.

And so we’ve teamed up with Canada’s outdoor giant, Arc’teryx, to ask their pro team of designers, product ninjas, and athletes to dish their tips, tricks and essentials in this ultimate guide to traveling with ski gear.

Pros

Sarah Wallace, Design Manager

Jonathon Wong, Product Line Manager

Christine Lustenberger, Athlete

Greg Hill, Athlete

Jonathon Wong, Product Line Manager of the White Line

Travel Tips

Carry-on your critical gear

The critical move when travelling to ski through airports is to carry-on your ski boots, orthotics, beacon, one set of gloves, ski socks, head lamp and some base layer with you. I’d add my contact lenses (since I can’t see well enough to ski without glasses and don’t want to ski with them), eyewear, camera + lenses and my computer (if I am on a work trip) to the mix. At least this way, if your luggage takes a detour, you can borrow some outerwear and some demos and rentals to get on the snow and you have all your critical personal gear. I’ve definitely seen people have these critical items (i.e. their boots) go astray in checked luggage and they get to sit and wait while everyone else goes skiing. The same applies to flying into huts on helicopters; definitely wear your ski boots so you know where they are.

Keep it tight and minimal

Try not to bring any extra bags that won’t double up on your trip. I usually bring a large day tripping backpack as my carry-on and put my boots and everything under the above paragraph into it. The f-stop bags work well since they have a zip-through back and you can stash your computer right behind this panel so you can take it through security separately. If you start packing extra bags in your checked luggage, your available volume will go down and your weight will ramp up into penalty land quickly. The same obviously applies to not doubling up on items (i.e. additional duplicate clothing layers, hats, etc.) or that weird camera lens you never use.

photo by @chilledmoose

TSA: It’s handy to have a system

I’ve flown a fair amount for work so you do want to have a system where you can easily pop your laptop into the box for the X-ray machine and efficiently put it away on the other side without leaving expensive bits and pieces (i.e. your camera which can stay in your bag) all over the place while you get organized again. I have one system and I stick to it for all my trips; with ski gear or without.

In terms of protecting gear…

I usually strap my poles to the skis (so it’s harder to break them in transit), pad my bindings, tips, and ski tails with clothing (3 to 4 of those Voile/G3 ski straps are handy to keep everything in place) and then strap or lay objects like ice axes and avalanche probes parallel to the whole package in the same bag.

Some people like rolling ski bags (and I do recommend rolling duffles unless you need to put your luggage into a helicopter at your destination) but the combination of both will send you into overweight penalty land. Boot crampons and ski crampons can go with your skis or in your duffle bag (just pad them up to protect everything and don’t try to take any of this stuff in your carry-on!). Oh, and don’t forget your skins if you are going touring!

You’ll most likely get charged for extra baggage unless…

No matter what you do, you are probably going to get charged for at least your ski bag or perhaps more with most major airlines unless you have been fortunate enough to come by a business class ticket. The unusual exception to this is if you are a current or ex-Canadian service member (you need to obtain a CFOne card to prove your veteran status) in which case WestJet and Air Canada will allow you to bring three checked pieces of luggage with you at no charge. Is this applicable to other countries? I’m not sure. But it’s certainly worth investigating.

Flying with an airbag pack?

If you’re flying with an airbag, you can usually bring the decompressed cylinder (assuming it is the compressed air style) on as carry-on as long as the bottle is empty, disassembled and everything is in a zip lock for inspection. Although note, I have only done this through Denver airport so it might not go so smoothly in other places where they do not have a lot of experience with airbags. If you are using an ABS or a Scott Alpride, you will have to source those cartridges at your destination.

Flying in a helicopter or light plane?

If your gear is going to get flown into a hut or something similar by helicopter or light plane (i.e. if you’re flying into Smithers or Terrace and you’re going into the Burnie Hut) it’s better if you can break everything down into your daypack + several small (preferably waterproof) duffles or roll-tops. The latter are much easier to pack into the small luggage compartments on helicopters.

Catching trains

Travelling on European trains, particularly solo, can get rather tricky. The crux is moving your ski bag, rolling or other duffle and yourself onto the train and off again without losing anything. You can often find a ski rack on the bigger trains, where you can place your ski bag upright, and then place your luggage in one of the racks near the doors so you can easily get everything off at your destination. Give yourself some time, make sure you know when your stop is coming up and be prepared to move everything quickly. It’s obviously easier if you even have one extra travelling companion since you can bucket brigade all your gear on and off with one person on the platform.

Local commuter trains are very difficult to negotiate since they are intended for moving commuters, not travelling skiers. Prepare to get scowled at! I think the toughest train situation I dealt with was having to heave my ski gear on and off the London tube. 

Three-day Eurail passes are handy, and economical, if you need to use the train for more than one journey. When I was on the Haute Route, the Swissrail folks would not let us send our luggage through to Chamonix (we were doing the Classic Reverse from Zermatt) without proof of ticketing and my three-day rail pass saved the day.

School holidays in Austria are crazy! Try to avoid these time periods. Your luggage will end up haphazardly stacked in the train corridor for sure under this scenario.

I never travel without…

My Scarpa ski boots (have basically used Maestrale RS and Alien variants since these boots came out), Intuition Pro Tour liners and my Kintec orthotics have all been carefully punched, molded, tweaked and customized, over the years, by Tom James at Intuition so those bits and pieces are basically mission critical deal breakers. I used to be a hardgoods buyer for MEC for 11 years so I have had my share of otherwise great days ruined by ill-fitting ski boots. I think I would lose my mind if I mislaid any of these bits and pieces before or on a trip!

Great ski socks are also really critical for skiing and touring and I currently use the really thin Smartwool PhD Ski Ultra Lights so I will put a set of these into my carry-on as well.

When I’m in travel (versus ski) mode, I usually pack a little pancake lens (a 40mm EF for my Canon 5D3 or a 20mm for my Panasonic GX1) and use it to shoot detail shots, candid portraits or anything else interesting. All this usually goes on a separate memory card (I have some high speed ones for actual ski photography) so I have a bunch of interesting non-ski photos to build out photo essays, etc.

Never ski without…

I’ve used BCA beacons since 2004 so the current BCA Tracker3 is something that I travel with and is my go-to beacon for any type of backcountry skiing.

Sarah Wallace, Design Manager of the White Line

Travel Tips

Dead Space

Many pieces of ski/snow equipment are “hollow” or have spaces inside them that can be utilized, like helmets and boots etc. Never leave these spaces empty! It’s surprising how many pairs of socks and underwear you can stuff inside a ski boot.

Layover Logic

When booking flights pay close attention to what’s happening with your layovers and flight connections. These can make or break your journey. Ideally you want layovers to be just long enough to minimize the risk of luggage not making the connection but short enough that you don’t have to bankrupt yourself spending hours at airport restaurants killing time.

Also, avoid airport changes at all cost. Years ago I was going on a snow trip in Argentina and inadvertently booked a flight itinerary which involved switching airports in Buenos Aires. Never again!

Book Ends

If you’re a book lover, audio books and podcasts on your phone are a great way to get your fix without using up any physical space that could otherwise be filled with ski essentials.

I never travel without…

As a tea lover a good thermos is critical! For years now I’ve been deeply attached to this Primus thermos and take it with me any time I go on a ski trip. The design is clean and simple, and the 350ml size is perfect for me. It’s comfortable to hold and fits more easily in a pack full of other essentials, compared to some of the larger sizes of thermos. When split boarding I often like to have cold water/drinks and a thermos of hot tea in my pack, so it’s nice to have a thermos that is on the smaller side.

Having said that, I was recently on a ski trip in Revelstoke and this caught my eye.

I love everything about this thermos and couldn’t say no. Beautifully designed, made of premium materials, and recyclable at end of life. At 595ml it’s a little bigger than the Primus so it’s hard to say which one will be my go-to going forward…will be nice to have both options!

There isn’t one particular lip balm that I can’t live without, but what I can say is that I need to have several on every ski trip. Lip balms are mandatory when you’re out in harsh conditions day after day, and they are one of those items that perpetually get misplaced. With millions of other things to think about, I don’t want to have to keep track of one solitary lip balm, so it’s nice to have a number of spares that you can distribute throughout various pockets in clothing and packs; that way you’re sure to always have one handy. Make sure they have a good SPF rating!

Dermatone Skin Protector “the frostbite fighter”. This is a must-have for preserving your delicate skin. Apply before and during your ski day. It’s a super small size and therefore great for traveling, but you don’t need to apply much so it lasts quite a long time. Added bonus – smells like coconut!

Never ski without…

Fall 2018 Sentinel LT Jacket…which has been a game changer for Arc’teryx. A progressively styled freeride shell with a long and lean youthful silhouette, bold, dynamic color blocking, and a full feature set. N80p Gore Tex with CKnit backer is tough and protective yet quiet and supple. This jacket was ‘my baby’…a personal mandate project that I was determined to bring to life, so naturally if I’m going on a snow trip I don’t want to leave home without it. 

Christine Lustenberger, Athlete

Travel Tips

Wheels, every time

My ski bag is usually packed with rope, ice axes and all the other backcountry ski essentials, and there is no way I’m lifting it, so a ski roller bag is the way to go.

Double up

If you can find a great double ski bag, they’ve got great upside. Traveling with a friend? You can easily fit both your skis in one bag and use that extra $25 for some tasty food.

I Never Travel Without…

I always carry on a big wrap sweater and a pair of socks. Night flights are cold so it’s nice to wrap up and stay warm.

Never Ski Without…

The Cerium LT Hoody is a go-to. It’s light and packs small, so takes up minimal room in my pack. From keeping me warm on a ridgetop to walking around town, it’s the one thing I never leave at home.

Greg Hill, Athlete

Travel Tips

Strap in (and around)

Ski straps like the ones from Voile or similar ties are essential to keep your kit tight and protected from the inevitable jostling. Go with something that adds a little ‘buffer’ between your skis too, i.e. thick rubber or Velcro and foam, or strap some clothes or socks between.

Carry-on your boots, always

Carry on your ski boots. They’re the one thing that’s super tailored to the user. It’s a bummer when your gear doesn’t show up and you’re renting or using someone else’s gear. This way at least you have your own boots. And you can just rent or borrow the rest.

Never Travel Without…

Traveling with my Salomon S/LAB MTN ski boots in hand is key. Boots are essential and usually very much tailored to the rider. Skis and everything else are easily borrowed or rented if you’re unlucky enough to have them lost in transit.

When I fly I love my Bose QC35 noise-canceling earphones, they make the small planes easier to sleep and travel on. Cutting out all the extra noises that make flying harder on me. Mine also come in a handy traveling case that holds my passport and tickets.

Never Ski Without…

This is pretty easy. No matter the weather, hot or cold, I always need my Gore-Tex layer, my essential ski jacket. My favorite is the Arc’teryx Rush LT.

Different airlines, different rules

Air Canada: 

– Ski equipment checked in separately counts as one piece of checked luggage.

– One boot bag is allowed per passenger and doesn’t count as a piece of checked luggage if it only contains boots and is carried with skis or a snowboard.

– No extra charge to check skis or a snowboard when traveling between Canada and Europe, the Middle East and Africa. Fees may apply when traveling within Canada, between Canada and the U.S. and all other destinations.

– One or more sets of skis carried together in the same container count as one piece of checked luggage.

– You must pack skis and poles in a rigid and/or hardshell case designed for shipping.

– If carried separately, a set of ski poles count as one piece of checked luggage. No oversize charge applies to skis or snowboards, but overweight charges may apply.

Air France: 

– Ski equipment is a standard checked luggage item

– It’s included at no extra charge in the luggage allowance (excluding Light and Basic fare tickets) if it’s the only luggage being checked (or one out of the two pieces of luggage allowed for Business and La Première cabins).

– One piece of luggage includes either of the following: a pair of alpine or cross-country skis, a pair of poles, and a pair of boots; OR a snowboard and a pair of boots.

– Items must be stored in a travel case not exceeding 300 centimeters or 118 inches in length.

– Ski or snowboard boots can be packed in a separate bag

– The travel case and boot bag are together considered one standard checked luggage item and they’re included at no extra charge in the luggage allowance.

– Transporting a helmet in the cabin is considered a hand baggage item, not an accessory.

– Transporting an avalanche airbag requires prior approval and a request submitted at least 48 hours before departure

Alaska Airlines: 

– Ski equipment counts as one piece of luggage toward baggage allowance. A fee applies to equipment over 50 pounds or 115 linear inches.

– One piece of luggage includes either a pair of skis with poles and one boot/helmet bag; OR a snowboard with a boot/helmet bag.

– If the boot/helmet bag contains clothing or additional items, standard checked baggage fees apply.

– Ski/snowboard equipment can exceed 62 linear inches but not over 115 linear inches or an oversize fee applies.

Allegiant Air: 

– Ski equipment is considered checked luggage with all applicable fees applied per person, per bag, per segment.

– Fess apply for bags weighing over 40 pounds and over 80 inches in size. No luggage weighing over 100 pounds is accepted.

– One piece of ski equipment includes either a pair of skis or a snowboard, a pair of poles and a pair of boots packed in an acceptable container.

British Airways: 

– Ski equipment counts as a piece of checked luggage. If traveling on a hand baggage only fare, a fee will be charged to check ski equipment.

– Items weighing more than 23 kilograms may be charged an overweight baggage fee.

– Skis and snowboards must be packed in a relevant bag made for such equipment, measuring no longer than 190cm in length.

– Skis/snowboard and boots can be packed in the same checked baggage as clothes provided it doesn’t exceed 190 x 75 x 65cm (75 x 29.5 x 25.5in) and weighs no more than your weight allowance.

– If boots are packed separately from skis or a snowboard, the boot bag can be carried as cabin baggage providing it fits the hand-baggage gauge.

Delta Air Lines: 

– Ski equipment counts as a piece of luggage toward luggage allowance.

– One piece of luggage includes a ski/pole bag and a boot bag OR one snowboard bag and a boot bag.

– Excess weight fees will apply if the combined weight of the ski/pole bag or snowboard bag and boot bag exceeds 50 pounds.

– If linear dimensions exceed 203 centimeters or 80 inches, excess size fees will apply.

JetBlue Airways: 

– There is no extra charge for ski and snowboard equipment but one piece of equipment counts as checked luggage.

– Skis and snowboards are exempt from the standard size requirements of 62 inches but need to adhere to weight and other equipment guidelines. Passengers are charged an excess baggage fee if the snowboard exceeds the checked baggage weight requirements. Ski and snowboard equipment are not accepted on flights to/from the Dominican Republic.

– One piece of ski equipment includes either a pair of skis, a pair of poles and a pair of boots OR a snowboard and a pair of boots.

– If packing boots separately from skiing equipment, they must be in a ski or snowboard boot bag to be considered part of the one piece of checked luggage.

Southwest Airlines: 

– Ski equipment counts as a piece of luggage toward luggage allowance.

– One piece of equipment includes a pair of skis or a snowboard, a set of poles and a pair of boots.

– The airline allows up to two bags (containing a set of skis, poles, and boots) to count as a single item, even if packed and tagged separately.

– Snow ski equipment is not subject to excess size charges but excess weight charges may apply if the equipment exceeds 50 pounds.

Spirit Airlines: 

– Ski equipment is charged as a standard checked bag.

– If the equipment weighs over 18.1 kilograms or 40 pounds excess weight charges will apply.

– If it measures more than 62 inches / 157.48cm then oversize fees will apply.

– If traveling with skis or a snowboard you will need to sign a limited liability release form.

– A piece of ski equipment includes a pair of skis or a snowboard, a set of poles and a pair of boots.

United Airlines: 

– Ski equipment counts as a piece of checked luggage.

– One piece of ski or snowboard equipment can be checked per person. One piece of equipment includes up to two snowboards in a bag plus a boot bag OR up to two pairs of skis and associated equipment in one bag plus a boot bag.

– Overweight fees will apply if the combined weight of the ski bag and boot bag is over 50 pounds (23 kg).

– A boot bag without an accompanying ski bag is considered one bag, with applicable baggage fees.

– Ski and boot bags that contain other items in addition to or in place of appropriate ski equipment are subject to the applicable overweight checked baggage service charge.

Virgin Atlantic: 

– Ski equipment is transported as part of your checked luggage allowance as long as it doesn’t exceed 23kg.

– A piece of ski equipment includes a pair of skis, poles, a mask or helmet and a pair of boots. Snowboard equipment includes a snowboard, a helmet and a pair of boots and bindings.

– You are not allowed to take both sets of ski snowboard gear as part of your luggage allowance; it’s one or the other.

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Feature image by @chilledmoose

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And if you have any cleaning tips of your own, please share in the comments!

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The world of Everyday Carry has it’s roots in being prepared, and wanting to have items with you during your day that will cover your basic needs, and anything within reason that might pop up.

In serious EDC circles, folks might pack things like a medical kit in case of injury, or a compass if they find themselves off-grid with a need to navigate to safety. Whilst on the other hand, your everyday urban commuter might pack an extra jacket in case they’re caught in an unexpected downpour. We all pack and prepare for different things at different levels.

And it’s worth noting, EDC is a very slippery slope, you can really end up knee-deep in a bunch of useless crap if you’re not careful – I’ve been there. My EDC has evolved throughout the years and if you’re interested, you can read more about that journey here – but right now we’re going to get in to how to handle your EDC bag, in my case: it’s a backpack.

Layout – Where do I put X?

The best way to pick a layout is simply by thinking about when, and how often you’ll need to use the thing. Ideally you don’t want to be reaching in to depths of the Mariana Trench each time you want a pen – the pen you use 35 times a day to jot down notes. Bulky stuff like drink bottles and laptops can prove difficult, luckily most bags these days offer a dedicated spot for a laptop, and if you carry a water bottle each day I’d definitely recommend external bottle pockets. 

This is purely my experiences, but I can’t even look at a roll top or top loading bags for EDC – function comes before fashion for my packing.

A rule of thumb is simply pack by need, quick access stuff up top and less likely to be needed stuff down below. Rain jacket? Probably stuff that in the bottom. Transit pass and earphones? Nice and high.

Pouches – get some

No bag comes with perfect organisation, despite how awesome it might seem – there will always be something you can do better. I take my organisation to a pretty insane level by most standards, which include custom made organisation panels, and a lot more pouches – I like pouches. Basically, anything your bag can’t organise properly, a pouch almost definitely can.

No dedicated admin compartment for pens, multi tools etc? Pouch.

No space for your power bank? Portable HDD? Pouch.

I was lucky enough to get in on the BOgear EDC Pouch before BOgear ceased production operations, it completely changed my carry game and is one of the best bag related decisions I’ve ever made.

I even picked up some pouches from IKEA, for $3.99 – perfect for snacks and toiletries.

Don’t overpack

This one’s easy, just don’t fill your bag up! You need the ability to stuff a couple things in there on an ad hoc basis, whether it be a cheeky 6-pack on the way home or that sneaky piece of cake left over from Sandra’s birthday that’s been sitting in the work fridge.

Take stock 

I find myself unpacking my bag somewhat often, looking at things I haven’t used and things I can switch out. If I haven’t used something in a while, I’ll usually ditch it. I charge batteries, make sure things work and pack everything back in – sometimes changing the organisation to make everything easier to access.

Packing an EDC bag is not a one-time deal, you really do need to take a look every now and then and make sure you’re not carrying stuff that just doesn’t make sense anymore. Carrying a sweater in winter makes sense, carrying one in the blistering summer heat really doesn’t – don’t forget to evaluate your packing.

Obviously there are different courses for different horses, but really, why not make your carry efficient? Lay out your gear properly, organise your small stuff, don’t overpack and evaluate your carry regularly – simple.

*And hey, if you’ve got any insights of your own, we’d love to hear them in the comments! 

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Think of the pack separated into thirds by the horizontal compression straps. The base, the center, and the top are the three sections of the bag that you’ll need to focus on packing.

First, you want to keep the heavier items as close as you can to your center of mass. That means don’t strap your tent to the bottom of your pack. That’s too much weight too far away from your center of mass. Seriously, you’re doing it wrong. If you need to strap a tent to the outside of your pack, run it between the lid and the main compartment.

Second, the more you can compartmentalize, the better.  You’ll see me use compression bags and dry bags for most of my gear. This helps with organization, compression, and waterproofing. I have a dry bag of every size for every category of gear I’m packing.

Now onto the nitty-gritty. When we look at the profile of the pack, it’s easiest to think of it in three vertical sections: the base, center, and top. In the picture below, it’s easiest to visualize the compression straps separating the bag in thirds.

The horizontal compression straps are a good point of reference for breaking the pack into sections on this Granite Gear Crown 2.

The Base

The base of the pack is a good spot for your sleeping system and any additional clothing that you’re packing but won’t be wearing anytime soon. I personally keep these separated into two dry bags: one for the sleep system, and one for additional clothing. My inflatable sleeping pad lives in the bottom section with the rest of my sleep stuff and fits neatly on top of the two dry bags.

I consider my sacred socks, a clean pair of underwear, and a wool shirt as part of my sleeping system. I keep these clothes and a pillow with my sleeping bag at all times and store the whole package in a Granite Gear eVent Sil compression dry sack.

My sleeping system stuff stack holds my sleeping bag, my sacred socks, a clean pair of underwear or thermals depending on the weather, and my medium weight insulation layer. During summer, that’s probably no more than a fresh wool long sleeve. On colder outings it’s either a down jacket or a synthetic layer. The socks and underwear never leave this bag. They’re part of the sleep system. Count them in your spare clothing totals, but don’t wear them outside of the sleeping bag.

A basic array of extra clothes for me includes a lightweight fleece, a long sleeve button up, an extra wool t-shirt, a pair of running shorts, and two pairs of socks. Including the clothes on my person, I can comfortably use this setup for upward of 2 weeks in fair weather.

My extra clothes are dictated by the weather and duration of my trip. An extra pair of socks for every week I’m out, an extra wool shirt, a long sleeve button up, shorts with brief liners sewn in, and a fleece is about all I need in summer weather.

My extra clothes are in the dry bag on the left and my sleep system is in the compression sack on the right. These make up the base section of my pack and keep heavier items higher up in the main pack bag and closer to my center of mass.

“The socks and underwear never leave this bag. They’re part of the sleep system. Count them in your spare clothing totals, but don’t wear them outside of the sleeping bag.”

A first-person view of my bag with a packed base section. The sleeping pad gets rolled up and pushed to the front face of the main pack bag so that heavier items can be placed closer to the back.

The Center

Now that we have that cushy base section filled, we can lay down our hard goods. Your cook kit, fuel, food bag/canister, and any other dense items should go here in the center of the pack, with the heaviest items as close to your back as possible.

Water and food. The Katadyn Hiker Pro has proven itself reliable in all manner of conditions and the Snow Peak Trek 900 gives me plenty of space to nest a 110-gram fuel canister and a Jet Boil Mighty Mo.

This is a generalization of what I’d eat on a weekend trip. I’ll need to fix myself some PB&Js before heading out, but I like the simplicity of the freeze dried meals from Mountain House for impromptu adventures.

I keep my food in yet another dry bag that’ll get tossed as a bear bag before turning in for the night. A dry bag is an easy solution for food storage in most environments where bear canisters are not required.

Your shelter will also go in the center. If you’re carrying a traditional backpacking tent, I recommend running your tent poles through the compression straps and down the side of the pack. This also changes up the standard 18×5” sack that tents are stored in and makes for easier packing and better weight distribution.

Removing any poles from your structure decreases the length of your shelter package and makes packing a lot easier. I like to run the poles between the compression straps and into the side pockets when I do take traditional pole-supported shelters.

On shorter trips, I sometimes use my inflatable sleeping pad as a collar rather than a roll (as pictured) to keep these items pinched toward my body. Just remember that the closer the weight of the bag is to your center of mass, the better it will ride.

Tents are among the heavier, denser items that you’ll pack. Carry them as close to your back as possible in the center section of the bag.

Food is also very heavy and very dense. Make sure you pack it in the center section of the pack. My cook kit and water treatment also find their home here in the center section.

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“Straps and plastic bags are the currency of wilderness living. Compress gear. Lash things. Keep stuff dry. Organize your bits and bobs. If you had to take extra something, it had better be Ziplocs and Velcro.”

---

The Top

Up top we’ll stick all our fast-access items like your rain gear, first aid, and insulation. This is really the hodge podge section where anything that doesn’t find a suitable home in a pocket winds up. For me, this top section’s contents are dictated by what bag I’m carrying. For example, with the Stein 62, I’m carrying my rain gear in the large front face pocket. If I’m using the Crown 2, I’m sticking my rain gear in the large stretch woven front face pocket. If I’m carrying the Flex Capacitor, my rain gear is right up top.

Where I keep my rain gear really depends on what bag I’m using. In this Crown 2, I like to keep it at the ready in the stretch woven front face pocket.

Personal preference comes into play here a little for the lighter, smaller odds and ends. I like to keep a snack within arm’s reach, I carry TP in a small plastic bag in the uppermost pocket of my pack, and I typically keep my compass and map on my person in a chest pocket.

At this point, you should have your big items packed. This is a good time to go through the ten essentials and pack anything on that list that you haven’t already. For those keeping score, it should look something like this:

• Navigation
• Protection: Sun + Bug + chap stick
• Clothing (insulator)
• Illumination
• First aid
• Fire kit
• Food
• Water
• Shelter
• Knife+tool

On Person and In Pocket

Like I said, I like to keep my navigation on my person, but in this case, it’s going in the lid of the pack, so we can cross that off. Next is protection, illumination, and fire. Before I move on, I should say redundancy is crucial for things like illumination and fire, especially when traveling with groups that I am responsible for. I take a backup headlamp (and a third in the first aid kit) and an extra lighter (also in the first aid kit). I typically keep these smaller items in an “essentials stuff sack”. For me that’s a silnylon drawstring sack that came with a sleeping pad that I keep in the lid of my pack. If the pack doesn’t have a lid, then obviously this little ditty bag is going to end up in the uppermost section of the main pack bag. That leaves me with Water and Knife + Tool left to cover.

Smaller “essential” items do well together in a waterproof sack. I’d traditionally keep my map and compass on my person, but for the sake of this piece, they’ll be stored in the lid along with the rest of this gear.

Where your water treatment system goes will depend largely on what your primary method is. For me, I’m turned big onto iodine right now after leading groups of 6-8 people out in the backcountry for three weeks at a time. I think iodine is a real winner. So that’s either in a tiny baggie in a top pocket or in my Pelican 1020 which is currently acting as a fire/water kit. As for knife and tool, I carry a small fixed blade around my neck and a larger fixed blade in the uppermost section of my pack or on my hip belt if I’m able. I’ll also carry a Leatherman One Hand Tool, which has recently quit One Hand-ing, in the first aid kit along with my sleeping mat patches and duct tape.

With room to spare, the lid of this Crown 2 will swallow a small first aid kit, a map, my essentials sack, a spork, and a Lion Steel M4.

On the outside of the pack, I’ll stash my poles when I’m not using them. I use a tarp or a tent that uses trekking poles as structural support, so I typically bring them with me. Lastly, I never go anywhere without my Therm-A-Rest Z Lite. More on that in the future, but those who know take one with them everywhere.

Last but not least, the Therm-A-Rest Z Lite lives between the lid and the main pack bag. I never leave home without it.

Pro Tips

Straps and plastic bags are the currency of wilderness living. Compress gear. Lash things. Keep stuff dry. Organize your bits and bobs. If you had to take extra something, it had better be Ziplocs and Velcro.

If you’re going to be out for a long time, I’d take a trash compactor bag as a bag liner. If you’re only out for a few days and the weather looks clear, you’ll probably be fine. Trash compactor bags only weigh a few grams and are worth the weight to reward ratio. Obviously, it gives me a waterproof liner for critical items like my sleeping bag, but it also gives me another item to sit on, collect trash, wash clothes, gather water, etc.

The primary focus of this piece was on organizing the ten essentials and weight distribution. Things like your personal items and hygiene are going to be packed at your own need and discretion. How do you pack your bag differently? Have you discovered any packing hacks that the rest of our carry community would really benefit from? Comment below with tips and tricks of your own and add to the conversation.

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