Before we dive into the Rucksack #1, it’s important to understand what makes this mountain workshop different. First and foremost, Racing Atelier is a design house, not a bag manufacturer. That might seem like a small difference on paper, but in reality it is the fuel that makes these wonderful packs special. Leander has serious design pedigree, which we discovered when we spoke to him back in 2018, and it is clear that this varied experience brings unique energy to his brand.

After years of admiration, we were ecstatic to get the chance to play with their flagship piece the Rucksack #1. Let’s dive into this unicorn-of-a-pack from Racing Atelier.

Breathtaking Beauty

It’s hard not to be immediately drawn in by the look of the Rucksack #1, after using it for the last six months, I have been stopped by people from every walk of life either exclaiming how they “love your bag” or asking “what is it!?” That type of reaction must be common for every Rucksack #1 owner, because it is a beautiful bag, more like a work of art. We had it hung on the wall at our recent Trakke meet up in Glasgow, and carryologists were ogling it and whispering to each other about “the yellow bag!”.

It’s clear to see why, aside from the striking yellow colour, the silhouette is so subtle that it fits any person who’d slide it on. My wife is a lot more slender than I, but it was perfect for her as we hiked around Oregon. For my shorter friends, they’ve carried it for a day or afternoon and had no issues with either look or comfort. It reminds you of an old school, heritage hiking pack, but step closer and you’ll realise that this is a bag that is a coalescence of the past and future. There are no sharp lines on the Rucksack #1, undulating curves make this a joy to look at, and to carry. Konbu® and leather work in tandem to give you the benefit of modern fabric advances, but with a taste of yesteryear, it’s a potent combination. With a 27 litre capacity, it hits the sweet spot of “not too big” and “not too small”, meaning it’ll cater to a lot of people.

Old world style meets new age materials

You simply can’t write about RA and their products without discussing materials, hardware, and all that comes with it. The level of detail in this Rucksack is quite astounding when you sit with it for twenty minutes and pore over every detail. Konbu®, leather, custom aluminium hardware, Edelrid wax dipped zipper pulls, Edelrid b-ware repurposed cinch closure, RiRi AquaZip, the list goes on and on. Each of these materials are leaders of the pack in their own fields, and when unified, it is something to behold.

You don’t need to do much research to realise how exceptional these materials are. Edelrid is commonly used in parachute lines, the custom aluminium hardware is aircraft grade (designed by RA and made in Germany) while the Konbu® and Leather are favourites at opposite ends of the same scale. 

Konbu® is pure witchcraft. Made by Cordura®, it is 500D nylon fibre that is 30-60% lighter than its traditional counterpart, it is of course durable like most Cordura fabrics, and it is incredibly weather resistant thanks to its DWR coating. Visually it is reminiscent of waxed cotton, but without the weight and the maintenance. Each bag made from Konbu® looks different, just like each waxed cotton bag takes on its own character. The organic aesthetic of Konbu® is reminiscent of Japanese Kelp, where it takes inspiration from.

Not only does it look good, it performs. I’ve carried the Rucksack #1, in all of its bright yellow glory, up and down mountains, across fields and beaches, not once have I been concerned with its weather resistance, while hiking in Oregon, it even took a pasting in a waterfall crossing and all my goodies were dry inside. It is almost impossible to stain, with a quick wipe down after each adventure, it sits pristine and eagerly waiting to get outside again!

I also found that Konbu® pairs beautifully with the custom made leather harness. It may seem romantic, but the marriage of old and new is truly exquisite on the Rucksack #1. This leather harness has to be seen in person to be believed, it is impeccable craftsmanship, and is arguably the most unique part of this bag. Vegetable tanned, this cowhide is painstakingly pieced together, hand rolled, and contorted into the beautiful silhouette that you see. It starts as a pale natural shade, but after just a few short wears it’ll begin to tell its own story, wear its own battle scars, and become uniquely yours.

This isn’t just happenstance either, Leander intentionally made this choice from a performance standpoint first, not an aesthetic one.

He describes how: “I use raw, untreated, vegetable tanned cow leather for the back panel and shoulder straps of the pack because of its functional characteristics: same as our skin the leather used to be skin as well, therefore can adopt better to the climate of our body – this becomes most obvious when we sweat > then it is a lot cooler to the body than a mesh or other material. Then the leather adapts to the shape of our body – the more we wear it, the more we sweat in it, the more often it gets wet the better it will fit our body. And leather is one of the few materials that can be ‘folded’ around the shoulder straps in inside and outside radius without having to fold it, wrinkle…. which I consider a valuable fact to the comfort of the shoulder straps”.

Not only that, since the spring of 2022, all of the leather is sourced from local towns, giving it an even more unique story than any other pack you’ve owned. It’s a circular process that can be admired, culminating in Bavarian leather coming from a known cow, farmer, slaughterhouse, and tannery. Every detail on the leather work is sublime, from the aforementioned stitching, to the hand stamped logo and product number. While I understand leather isn’t for everyone, if you are going to own it, there aren’t many better ways than this.

How does it perform?

Unique materials and innovative manufacture aside, a bag of this cost must do the job, and do it very, very well. The good news is that it does.

Within a few wears, you can already begin to feel the leather harness molding to your body, that is a real pleasure. While all bags break in with use, there is a connection with this leather harness that feels different, and it only gets better. I’ve had no problems with carrying heavy loads in the Rucksack #1, I’ve managed thirty to forty pounds easily. Either hiking gear including layers, food, and water. Or more tech focused carry including cameras, tripods, and the like. There was no notable discomfort and I was astonished at how breathable the back panel proved to be. Although I do think the optional waist strap would have come in useful on longer trips at those higher weights. The adjustable chest strap is a pleasure to use thanks to the simple hook engagement, and is easily used with one hand on the move.

Functionality wise, this version of Rucksack #1 is a simple bag. With one main cavity, a lid pocket, and a side compression strap. The main cavity is probably around 24-25L, while the lid pocket is 2-3L. This lid pocket is protected by the RiRI AquaZip and I found it to be a natural home for wallet, phone, and snacks or accessories. There is also a key loop in there to keep the essentials close by.  The main cavity is whatever you want it to be, and I found myself pairing it with slings and pouches pretty regularly. There is no lining in the Rucksack #1, and I don’t think it’s needed. You can see everything, from the fiber of the leather, to every stitch and join.

This isn’t what you would call quick access by the current standard – there isn’t a secondary access from the side or magnetic closures, but when you look past that, you’ll find my favorite part of the bag. The cinch system.

The delightfulness of this closure system is hard to describe. It’s slow, it takes some getting used to, but once you have it down, it is an absolute joy to use. The custom made hardware shines here from both the rope tension closure, through to the seemingly sailing inspired aluminium and pension tension adjusters. The rope cinch is intertwined with the repurposed Elderid b-ware cord that we mentioned earlier, and the blue adds a wonderful flash of colour as you activate the cinch system. These too take on their own patina and scuffs throughout use, and this bag becomes more and more unique each time you use it. While it is slower to access than I’m accustomed to, it feels very intentional when you do interact, there’s something charming about that.

Orders and Customisation

There is no hiding that this bag isn’t cheap. At 2300 euros, it’s a barrier to most. However, I would say that the Rucksack #1 isn’t just carry, it’s art. It isn’t just any art either, it is personalised, specialised, individual masterpieces. Made to your taste. When you begin your process of ordering with Leander, there are multiple options. While originally designed as a hiking pack, it is not limited to that, and Leander will work with you to create what you desire. Some of the options include: compression straps, axe or pole attachments, laptop sleeve inside, side pockets, waist straps, and different colour webbings. He also offers different materials including Konbu®, Dyneema® and there’s even some special fabrics coming later this year.

Quite the range of choice, however, this isn’t a pick and choose make your own Frankenstein backpack deal, this is a collaborative design process where Leander will take your desires on board and discuss how they can be integrated into the delightful form factor of the Rucksack #1. I love that about Racing Atelier, they create and we’re just along for the ride, riding the coattails.

“Even though not every pack is used heavily outdoor or the like, I want it to be as functional and comfortable as it should be. At first I never say no, because I like to accommodate customers’ wishes. It is my main interest to create a product that is meaningful to the customer – the more it suits his/her needs the more meaningful it becomes”.

Note, it takes approximately four weeks for Leander to create your bag from the beginning of the process.

Why you might like it

I’m going to hedge my bets and say that if you buy a Racing Atelier bag, you’ll never own anything better. It is a work of art, created for you, and no-one will ever have the same bag as you. It is the definition of bespoke, and one that will stay with you and your family for decades. It is pure craftsmanship of the highest level. Recently I watched two owners of other very well respected brands drool over the quality of construction and design of the Rucksack #1. I had to keep my eyes on it at all times!

It’s hard to sum up how I feel about the Rucksack #1. I see its obvious strengths, and some of its less obvious flaws. However, I keep coming back to two things. Firstly, I have never been as excited to wear a bag as I am every time I put this on, I get giddy because I know how unique it is, how comfortable it is, and how different it is. I find great joy in knowing that my “040” Rucksack #1 isn’t anywhere else in the world, just on my back.

Secondly, I have never seen others fawn over a bag the way they do with the Rucksack #1. When I think of our community, and what we aspire to, that is quite something. A celebration of all that people can do, and sharing it with the world. Sometimes, when I wear the Rucksack #1 around town, I feel like I’m wearing a masterpiece on my back, and rather than it being locked away in a private gallery–it’s out there for all to see. I think as Carryologists it can be easy to fall into the trap of criticising bag X for what it doesn’t do compared to bag Y, and we can overlook the intention of the designer. Here, Leander wants to make a bag for you to use, love, and trust. He isn’t trying to make bags that compete with the mass market. That is a wholesome intention that is manifested in his products. 

If you’re a purist, and want a very special experience from conception through to delivery – and to wear a backpack that is truly at the pinnacle of backpack design and product art – the Racing Atelier Rucksack #1 is something well worth investing in.

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Officially, the purpose of my trip was to attend and compete in the World Beard and Moustache Championships held in the tiny mountain town of Leogang, Austria (Spoiler Alert: I took 7th place in the World, with two of my friends in the Austin Facial Hair Club scoring 1st place in the World in their respective categories).

However, I had some other plans in store for this trip.  In the weeks leading up to my journey, I was emailing with Katrin and Robert at AustriAlpin (makers of “the world’s highest quality safety hardware for military, SAR, fall-stop, para-sport and mountaineering”) with the crazy idea of a visit.  I was almost surprised when they quickly agreed to give me a private tour of the factory/headquarters while I was there during my only available window of time.  Yes, I plan for carry-related brand visits whenever I’m traveling, be it domestically or internationally. 

AustriAlpin Cobra buckles adorn some of our very favorite carry brands’ products on the market (Mission Workshop, Bedouin Foundry, DEFY Bags, and more) and I’m a massive fanatic of the hardware and brand, so this pitstop was a must-do for me.  In fact, I’m so much of an AustriAlpin addict/junkie, that I modified my Triple Aught Design FAST Pack Litespeed to include a total of 9 Cobra buckles.  Yes, nine.
Maybe overkill?  Definitely.
Super awesome?  Absolutely.

To be honest, I was extremely excited for this AustriAlpin HQ visit.  Maybe even more so than the World Championships…the primary purpose taking a backseat to this private tour.

“I’m so much of an AustriAlpin addict/junkie, that I modified my Triple Aught Design FAST Pack Litespeed to include a total of 9 Cobra buckles. Yes, nine.”

For the purpose of carry geeking, the Alchemy Equipment AEL008 Carry On and AEL006 Daypack were my two bags on this trip and they were more than amazing for carrying everything I needed for 14 days in Austria, Germany, Slovakia, and Hungary.  Plus, no checked bags since the AEL008 is carry-on size and the AEL006 acted as my personal item.  I even had enough room on my final days abroad to stuff in some bulky gifts for friends and family.

Immediately upon exiting Salzburg Airport, I loaded my AEL008 and AEL006 into the small European rental car and started the drive from Salzburg to AustriAlpin located in the picturesque Stubaital Valley in the middle of the Stubai Alps. 

“For the purpose of carry geeking, the Alchemy Equipment AEL008 Carry On and AEL006 Daypack were my two bags on this trip and they were more than amazing for carrying everything I needed for 14 days in Austria, Germany, Slovakia, and Hungary.”

To be honest, the 2-hour drive took well over 3.5 hours due to the countless repeating stops to marvel at the incredibly stunning vistas…and maybe pet an uber-friendly dairy cow or two.  This drive was a brilliant way to almost instantly see the famous countryside of Austria after having only landed in the country hours ago.  Though Austrian cities are charming and full of wonderful history, the outdoors is where this country shines.  Get out there.

“To be honest, the 2-hour drive took well over 3.5 hours due to the countless repeating stops to marvel at the incredibly stunning vistas…and maybe pet an uber-friendly dairy cow or two.”

Following the GPS on the foreign twisty roads, I was a bit shocked when it had verbally announced that I had officially arrived in the destination village of Fulpmes, Austria (just south/southwest of Innsbruck if you’re familiar with Austrian geography).  I couldn’t believe that there could possibly be a manufacturing facility among these iconic beautiful cottages out here in these green-grassed mountain farmlands.  Where could this facility be hiding? 

I mean, there was an actual glacier in full view, towering above the sun-soaked valley.  Absolutely no signs of “heavy industry”.  The only sounds were happy birds chirping through the rich air, the ambient bubbling of an unseen glacial-melt river somewhere down through the trees, and mellow gusts of wind which carried the paragliders who seemed to be floating effortlessly miles above me in the sky.  It was well beyond what I had imagined.

“I couldn’t believe that there could possibly be a manufacturing facility among these iconic beautiful cottages out here in these green-grassed mountain farmlands.”

Just down a small road at the edge of town, revealing its disguise while in plain sight, there was a minimalist white structure with the AustriAlpin logo on the front.  It both stood out and blended into the surrounding architecture and landscape with ease.  This was it.  I made it.

My email contact Katrin came out to the front parking lot, wearing a full and genuine smile, to shake hands and officially welcome me to AustriAlpin. 

Still taken aback by the beauty of the surroundings, almost distracted by them, high on sunlight and the fresh air, my head on a swivel, I fumbled with my words and commented on the incredible weather and the paragliders soaring up above.  Katrin agreed with me on the superb weather they had been having, then took a moment to squint at one particular barely visible tiny ant of a human flying up in the sky.  “Ah yes, that one is my uncle. He’s using our hardware.” He mentioned this tidbit so casually, as a simple matter of fact. Of course Katrin was related to him and of course he was using their hardware.  It was comical how much sense that made.  Then we made our way inside.

We entered the first of the two buildings, which is where the business side of AustriAlpin takes place.  Robert, another employee who would show us around, met us inside.  The interior is very Austrian in design; minimalist, beautiful, clean.  Meeting rooms, open air offices, full of cheerful workers warmly introducing themselves.  It screamed out “this is a place anyone with a pulse would want to work”, but in a well-mannered, polite tone.

“The interior is very Austrian in design; minimalist, beautiful, clean. Meeting rooms, open air offices, full of cheerful workers warmly introducing themselves.”

Then, I was led downstairs to the connected warehouse portion of the office.

This is where they kept the gold; all their products, ready to ship out to customers around the world. 

Row after row after row of tall shelves stacked with boxes filled with Cobra buckles, GT Cobra buckles, Cobra FM buckles, carabiners, ice axes, ice tools, climbing helmets, crampons, and other hardware bits that I’m not enough of an outdoor athlete to even begin to identify or guess their intended purposes. 

I’ll tell you, reaching my hand into a cardboard box with the words “Made in Austria” on the exterior and filled to the brim with Cobra buckles is a feeling like no other. 

Better than a box full of precious valuable metals used for currency.  Nearly worth as much too.

“I’ll tell you, reaching my hand into a cardboard box with the words “Made in Austria” on the exterior and filled to the brim with Cobra buckles is a feeling like no other.”

The different color options which I’ve only seen photos of online, were even better than I imagined.

Though I always prefer the pure and simple black or silver clearcoat Cobra buckles… now I wanted one in every color that they offered.  Brilliant.

I wish I had taken a photo of the blue Cobra buckle I spotted, but I was a bit overwhelmed and must have forgotten.

I jokingly asked if there was another giant room filled with their buckles that I could dive into and swim through like Scrooge McDuck.  Perhaps behind a secret door?

Sadly, there wasn’t such a room that existed.  But this experience would surely suffice.  Maybe someday they’ll build this room based on my suggestion. 

Since I normally don’t get to handle the full collection of AustiAlpin’s gear, I was mentally shopping and taking notes for which set of ice axes and crampons I’d like to purchase for an upcoming adventure trip to Nepal.  Each version was better than the next.  Whenever I’ve saved up enough, it will be AustriAlpin-made products that I confidently trust my life with.

Honestly, I didn’t want to ever leave this warehouse, as I could spend a lifetime fondling these high-performance and amazing bits of kit.

“Whenever I’ve saved up enough, it will be AustriAlpin-made products that I confidently trust my life with.”

If I was a warehouse employee here, I’d get absolutely no work done.  AustriAlpin Hardware Fondler.  That could be a job.

But, I was told we’d be leaving now, headed to where the magic happens…the factory.

“If I was a warehouse employee here, I’d get absolutely no work done. AustriAlpin Hardware Fondler. That could be a job.”

Fully expecting a long walk “over to the factory” or maybe even a short drive, I was surprised to see the factory only 100 feet or so in front of us, just across the parking lot. 

Here in the parking lot outside the factory’s back/side doors, I met the two owners of AustiAlpin.  Both were pleasant, welcoming, and more than willing to take time out of their day to join along in the tour.  I recall them both having a great sense of humor, language not posing a barrier whatsoever.  I will admit, their English is much better than my Deutsch.

The very first thing you see upon walking into the factory is the giant display of Cobra buckles which makes up the AustriAlpin logo; 340 of them if I counted correctly.  That’s roughly $8,500 USD and nearly 50 lbs of Cobra buckles.  Awesome.  I want one.

“The very first thing you see upon walking into the factory is the giant display of Cobra buckles which makes up the AustriAlpin logo; 340 of them if I counted correctly.”

Just through the main entrance is a sea of CNC mills, cutting away.  Running 24 hours a day (if my memory isn’t failing me).  This is Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory for a gear geek like myself.  Here, I was able to witness Cobras and other high-end AustriAlpin hardware bits being made from scratch.  They all start out as massive bars of raw aluminum, brass, and steel.  Then manipulated into their final form via a variety of fabrication processes and high-dollar, high-tech, high-precision machines.  Start to finish, everything done right here in-house.  Even the super durable coatings.

“Just through the main entrance is a sea of CNC mills, cutting away. Running 24 hours a day (if my memory isn’t failing me). This is Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory for a gear geek like myself.”

Though this was the most exciting part of the visit, I’m not allowed to share much regarding the actual manufacturing details, as many of their processes are patented, patent pending, and/or just plain old confidential.  They are the best of the best, after all. 

There were many times I’d ask if I could photograph a specific aspect, process, or detail of the manufacturing process and they would very kindly explain that it was not a good idea. 

So, honoring their privacy, I won’t go into too much detail on these steps and I will only show the photos that they agreed to when I asked.

I will say, from my professional knowledge and understanding of production, materials, and quality from many other factory visits throughout my Industrial Design career…this is one of the finest hardware facilities in the world.  The machine operators were all very happy, the inside was spotlessly clean, and the air was as fresh inside as it was outside.  This brand takes their people, their products, and their company very seriously.

“I will say, from my professional knowledge and understanding of production, materials, and quality from many other factory visits throughout my Industrial Design career…this is one of the finest hardware facilities in the world.”

Once we finally wrapped up in the factory, which was the last stop on the tour, we made some small talk and some jokes out in the parking lot, soaking up the warm sunlight.  I’ll admit that I was dragging it out, I didn’t want to leave.  But, I had 5-liter beers and homemade schnapps to drink with my bearded competitor friends from all around the world…who happened to be well under way with kicking off the festivities, hours away in Leogang.

With a generous gift of a very cleverly designed AustriAlpin “fifty:fifty autolock carabiner” straight from off the shelf at the warehouse clipped onto my Alchemy Equipment AEL006 Daypack, we all exchanged some handshakes and hugs, then I was off.

To this day, every single time I use this carabiner, I think of my unbelievable day visiting AustriAlpin headquarters in that wildly gorgeous valley of the Stubai Alps.  I’m sure every bit of it is just as perfect there as the last time I saw it; the stoic mountains, the powerful glacier, and those weightless paragliders soaring up above…using AustriAlpin hardware, of course.

Thank you to everyone at AustriAlpin, the makers of the finest hardware in the world, for allowing this once-in-a-lifetime tour to occur.  I’d wholeheartedly love to come visit again.  Until that day comes, I’ll be daydreaming on the idea that you’ve taken my suggestion and built a room full of Cobra buckles that I can swim through like Scrooge McDuck.

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Oh, and beyond that, the reason our content may have slowed a little in recent weeks is that there’s been a lot happening here at Carryology, a lot behind the scenes, a lot of stuff that we hope is going to make your experience with Carryology even more amazing.

The main thing we’re excited to tell you about is that we are about to launch a new look, new build Carryology – the new site is awesome with lots of new features to help you on your way to improving the way you carry. But for now, enjoy the candy

View more over at the Carryology Pinterest Page

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Early on, we decided Carryology should be targeting quality not quantity. We want to offer insights, which means fewer posts that go into more depth than most blogs do. The downside to that is we don’t get to share LOTS of carry products, details and imagery that we come across. Enter Pinterest.

We’ve started filling an album chock full of carry, and we thought it was about time we shared.

Use it for inspiration, research or just plain carry candy. And if you have some awesome crew we should be following, please do leave a comment. But right now, go spend the next little while drinking in all the carry candy we’ve found over the last while – Carryology on Pinterest.

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Louis Vuitton Speedy, Chanel 2.55, Hermès Birkin – arguably the matriarchs of the luxury handbag world.

Where the ‘It’ bag has been declared dead by some, each of these designs has stood the test of time – I respect that and was intrigued to find out more.

Hang on… before you scroll up to double check… yes, you’re on Carryology, but we like to give credit where credit’s due.  The design of the Hermès Birkin dates back as far as 1892, with the Louis Vuitton Speedy designed in 1933 and the Chanel 2.55 launched in February 1955.

(Conversely, we really dislike the pretentious wank around luxury products but that’s another post for another day – or perhaps another blog).

I admit the knowledge of the price tag alone on each of these bags was a challenge to get past. I don’t envisage ever owning a luxury handbag but at least now I can better appreciate the enduring fascination around these styles.

On first glance the Louis Vuitton Speedy is a basic-looking handbag – rounded in shape, minimal internal pocketing, twin grab handles and leather trim. However, the real beauty is in the craftsmanship of these handbags. Aside from the quietly elegant silhouette, the coated canvas used is both lightweight and durable, the seams are hand sewn and each features cowhide leather trim and brass hardware.

The bag’s longevity must certainly be due in part to the use of the Monogram. Incorporating the LV symbol, flowers and quatrefoils, the iconic design borrows from the Victorian era trend of using Oriental-inspired graphics.

The first Speedy 30 was released in 1933. It’s available in a number of sizes from 25-40 with the number referring to the bag’s length, as well as in a number of designs with the Monogram and Damier Canvas being the most well known.

Interestingly, the Damier Canvas pattern incorporates wording that translates into “L. Vuitton registered trademark.” Designed by Mr Vuitton himself to stop his creations being copied, the brand is today amongst the world’s most valuable but also the most counterfeited!

Maybe the most famous images of the Speedy are those of the 25’s debut in 1965 on Audrey Hepburn’s arm.  She’d requested the smaller size for everyday use, and together with the 30 it is still the more sought after size.

The Louis Vuitton Speedy is kinda the anti-‘It’ bag – absolutely refined…low-key on first glance yet its notoriety ensures a place on any all-time list.

Chanel’s 2.55 bag is possibly the very first fashion shoulder bag. Having debuted first in 1929, it was refined further and released as the 2.55 in February 1955 (get it?!). A bag with a shoulder strap was quite the radical concept in fashion circles at the time.

It is believed Ms. Chanel took inspiration from larger satchel-type bags used by military personnel to create a practical alternative for women who no longer wanted to hand-carry their bags everywhere.

Rectangular in shape, with minimal internal pocketing, the bag’s key feature is the threaded chain and leather shoulder strap. The body of the bag is quilted lambskin or caviar leather, available in three different sizes with gold or silver plated hardware.

The bag is a material tribute of sorts to Coco’s early experiences. The burgundy coloured lining is the same shade as the convent uniform colour Coco wore as a girl. The diamond quilting pattern was inspired by a number of things: cushions Coco had in her Paris apartment, jockeys’ riding coats and stained glass windows of the Aubazine Abbey. The chain detail itself playfully borrows from the key chains used by caretakers of the Aubazine Convent where Chanel lived after losing both parents.

The 2.55 continues to evolve ever so subtly even today, with new colours and design variations introduced every year. The R&D that goes into each new collection is intense, with a heap of prototypes handmade before any get the green light.

The leather for each bag is meticulously measured, cut, stitched and finished – however most of the actual production time is spent on assembly. Supports are inserted to give each bag that distinctive structure, while care is taken with the lining and internal of every 2.55 to ensure every last detail feels as luxe as the external. Each bag is quilted using machines specifically developed by Chanel, with the logo work, hardware and shoulder strap added in the final stages. It’s interesting to note that each bag’s ‘make’ includes 180 processes in total.

Coco Chanel once said ‘simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance.’ Her iconic 2.55 handbag is this statement personified. It’s totally the little black dress of the luxury handbag world and will never go out of style (funny side note – Coco Chanel is credited with designing the original little black dress, which I didn’t realise until after I’d written that last sentence).

And finally…where other ‘It’ bags have come and gone, the Birkin is truly in a class of its own. Until very recently, these bags boasted the longest waiting list of any handbag in history – up to six years. This bag practically invented the handbag waiting list.

The inspiration for the now iconic Hermès Birkin dates back to the Haut à Courroies (often referred to as the HAC) bag, a style designed in 1892 for carrying saddlery and riding gear. The very first Birkin wasn’t made until 1984 though – three years after a chance meeting between the bag’s namesake, actress Jane Birkin, and the then Hermès Chairman and Artistic Director, Jean-Louis Dumas.

The story goes Mr Dumas was inspired to design a bag for the actress after the pair struck up a carry conversation of sorts on a 1981 airplane flight.

The Hermès Birkin, unlike the Louis Vuitton Speedy and Chanel 2.55, is logo-free but its timeless design and reputation ensures instant recognition.

The Birkin is available in different lengths – from 25 cm up to 55cm. It’s a box-type shape, crisp in proportion with twin grab handles and feature closure complete with a lock and key.

In terms of leather, colour and hardware customers can choose from many options. Leathers including calfskin, ostrich, crocodile and even lizard are available in countless colours and each bag is lined with goatskin.

You can even take your pick between various precious metals for the bag’s hardware, with palladium and gold being the most popular. Authentic Hermès hardware will always be stamped with a ‘H’. Finally, Hermès’ signature saddle stitching ensures that classic finish. Each Birkin is completely handmade in France, with up to 48 working hours spent on one bag by one of Hermès’ expert artisans.

Today however, there is no such waiting list for the Birkin. As another casualty of the global financial crisis, only time will tell if the bag that has transcended time and many a fad can sustain its lust factor.

I guess as a conclusion of sorts, I have come from a place of ‘those bags are repellent’ to respecting each design for its timeless quality and resilience in an ever-changing marketplace. Each bag remains largely unchanged from the day it was released until now.

C’mon all you haters out there… there’s something special about that and it’s a rarity in the design world today.

A parting question – can the YSL Muse, the Marc Jacobs Stam, the Mulberry Alexa or any of the more recently designed ‘It’ bags secure as loyal a following as the years go by? Check them out with your design hat on and let me know what you think.

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Carry Candy :: Hard Graft 3Fold

This is quite the Carry Candy piece. Anything that comes in at this price level is def candy you ain’t going to be eating anytime soon. Andrew Tsui gives us his thoughts on the 3Fold in a semi drive by/carry candy style post, either way this is a sexy piece of carry.

What really caught my eye about Hard Graft’s carry catalog was the 3FOLD Multi-use Bag. Offered in three color variations, it’s a novel use of origami principles to maintain its shape in several different ways. The first form, a large portfolio, looks most useful for the artistic folks who need to carry large prints and perhaps a laptop and its accessories. It’s definitely big enough for canvases, stands, and a minimal amount of paint and pencil supplies.

In contrast, the “overnighter” form definitely gives duffel-style capacity along with lovely leather touches to create an elegant travel companion. This form is created by cinching two leather straps through the tips of the triangle folds that naturally form on this shape, similar to an origami “water bomb”. Based on the video, I’d figure that folding this bag together could be a 5-minute exercise even with the crease seams sewn into the bag in order to facilitate the formation of the shape itself. But the end result is damn nice.

And to round out the things you could do with this bag, the “slim laptop” form at 18.5 inches long by 13 inches high (and approximately 4 inches thick based on my judgment) looks suitable for a broad range of paperwork and, of course, a laptop and its accessories. In this case, it’s held together by merging the two straps together, originally to form the “overnighter”, into one long strap that encircles the entire height of the bag.

To be entirely practical, I don’t know that the average artist or traveller will want to pay roughly $764 US (quoted as €589 Euro) for it. It is certainly beautiful to look at, and I’m sure the leather is top notch. But even if I received it as a gift, I’d be scared to scratch or maim the exterior finish. As a concept, it is fantastic; I wish I could have come up with and marketed it myself! But practically speaking, it might just be a bit too large and unwieldy to shift between those forms. And as a finishing thought, duck waxed canvas might have simply been a more durable and practical choice for a more affordable bag that could popularize the idea.

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Just north of Melbourne, in a tangle of Australian bush and wildlife, Scottie Neoh and Natalia Perez design and craft leather, canvas and wool into some pretty primo carry goods under the label Tailfeather. Last night they showcased some of their new designs to an appreciative audience at Beggar Man Thief…

That all sounded a bit sucky, but when you’ve been frothing over hand stitched vegetable tanned kangaroo hides, it can kind of go to your head.

Maybe let’s start with the venue…

Beggar Man Thief is one of the best places to buy shoes in Melbourne. But thankfully for the carry community, they are also starting to realise that their city and surrounds has some awesome home-cooked carry brands, and so BMT are showcasing and supporting these guys as they get traction.

With Tailfeather’s new range additions, they thought it would be a good idea to put on some brews and show them off alongside the existing staples. This included some examples of just how a good vegetable tanned leather breaks in and develops a unique character…

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Over the coming weeks, Scottie should hopefully find time to update their website. When he does, you’ll see really distinctive bags like the Nightjar…

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Or a range of wallets and organizers that take a different approach, like the Firetail…

Being hand stitched, this stuff is not cheap (around $300-500 USD equivalents for the styles shown), but the value and care mean that still feels like value.

I won’t spoil too much more, but we’ll be reviewing a wallet and bag over the coming month, and Scottie should get around to updating that website soon…

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Bonus: Scottie’s talents don’t stop at leather craft. For a bit of inspiration juice, check out his personal site for some ridiculously nice art.

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Brooks Carry Range

The world of carry is full of sameness. Thousands of brands with tens of thousands of styles, with the majority just copies of each other.
So it’s always refreshing when we see a brand produce a really creative carry range, especially if that range draws on a rich brand heritage. This is where we say hello Brooks England…

Brooks have officially been around forever. Adam and Eve road around on Brooks saddles, celebrating the soothing effect of the springs under their fig leaf covered parts. And while saddles have been the mainstay, they’ve recently released a few bags they hope might complement their style. And in our humble opinion, they do.

If you have a little spare time, go and play around on their website.

There’s loads of personality and fun to it, all with a little of that British quaintness we love so much. We’ve grabbed a few of the images below, but we really can’t do the site justice in one short page. So go and have a look at their bags, check out their blog, read a few user stories, and travel back to a time when England was still proud of itself.

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If you’re not familiar with Hard Graft, go and have a play on their site. Like NOW. The English/Austrian duo behind this brand have an amazing aesthetic, paired with old world craft sensibilities. But the thing that really rocks our boat is how innovative they are with classic wool felt and leathers.

So the 2Unfold is basically a satchel/tote, but with a number of really impressive tricks:

• It extends to be a full length folio bag, allowing you to carry large or long items
• It then folds in half for a more manageable daily work bag
• The shoulder strap can be threaded to make it a backpack
• And a trademark lower hand loop lets you palm it with confidence

One downside with the Hard Graft pouches we currently own is that those delightful felts and leathers are pretty thick & luxurious, not leaving all that much room for your contents. But if you’re in to Hard Graft, you’re hopefully also in to minimalism and removing clutter from your life. So it shouldn’t be a biggie.

Oh, and if anyone has treated themselves to a 2Unfold, we would love to hear your thoughts on it. In the meantime, we’ll go back to drooling…

Take a peek at the bag below and head over to Hard Graft for more detailed images..

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